Ukraine's Spherical Cow

Oh, that place is so crowded. No one goes there any more.

Феникс (Phoenix), formerly called Еврика (Eureka) and Казбек (Kazbek), is a new fusion restaurant on Lesi Ukrainki Boulevard in Kyiv. On Thursday nights before the Orange Revolution, they used to have Georgian music and I would show up. It was a pretty cramped place, and it began to occur to me, “Should I go this Thursday or not?” I realized that a lot …